A spoonful of Marc Jacobs is sure to make the reviews of the fashion world go down well with the mish-mash of influence on his New York S/S '09 catwalk.
Looking like a cross between aladdin and Mary Poppins after having taken a trip to Dubai via China, the collection referenced as many cultures as there are syllables in the word supercalifragilistic.
Snapshots of plaid shirts and obi sash's paid homage to Jacobs' first Perry Ellis collection and the lavish embellishment detail was bejewelled across 3/4 sleeved jackets and customized straw 'pancake' hats, creating a stark contrast.
With US Vogue ediotr, anna Wintour, placed front-row amidst a celeb-packed audience (Jacobs close friend Victoria Beckham and media darling Nicole Richie to name two), Jacobs was up against it. The star-studded, media-ogled event being a far cry from his humble beginnings at Parsons School of Design and infamous dismissal from Perry Ellis in 1993.
Metallics and rich taffeta dominated the look; a range of clashing butterfly, gingham and diamond prints evoking a kind of magic reminiscent of Dorothy and the Wizard of Oz.
Walking to the sounds of George Gershwin's Rhapsody In Blue, Jacobs' models exuded a 1920s feminism in their platform stilettos and hats placed precariously to the side of their heads. Silhouettes were kept traditional with slim fitting pencil skirts nipped in at the waist with wide cummerbund style belts of all colours, shapes and detail. Not only was there an air of the roaring 20s but a chic 30s feel also prevailed amongst the collection, further cementing the menagerie of influence spilling out from the catwalk.
Structured jackets, 7/8 'skinnies' and mid-shin voluminous skirts conformed to the 3/4 length trend. Skirts were split provocatively up the back, bowed and pocketed and the collection was very much about the two-piece, with the odd exception of a pastel coloured, almost Grecian gown.
Statement jewellery was made up of chunky bracelets - stacked all the way up both arms - and over-sized glimmering necklaces. Handbags of all shapes and sizes - quilted, zebra striped, large and small - prompted visions of freshly wrapped Quality Streets just waiting to be delved into. Turban-style headwear made an appearance, as did baker boy caps and make-up was kept to a minimum with nude tones occasionally shaded by sunglasses.
A wide range of shoes catered for the mass of different garments, some wrapped around and up the length of the leg. Espadrilles, sculptured heels and stilettos guaranteed teetering models, Agyness Deyn and Jourdan Dunn both flying the flag for us Brits.
The plaited hair and textured drapery paired with the simplicity of the silhouette helped to keep the collection conventionally Marc Jacobs. He once again artistically achieved his quirky style, combining luxurious fabric - from lame to leather - with a glimpse of grunge to create 53 stunning key spring pieces. Once again Jacobs hit the nail on the head with his collection being, maybe, his most ingenious to date.